Saturday, February 16

Greetings from Marquette Michigan. Molly has four days off from school and this is the weekend of the U.P. 200 dogsled race. Jean and Joanna were nice enough to give up their house for us so we decided to hit the road. As soon as Molly got out of school yesterday we headed north.

The drive up here could have been better. We hit the obligatory blizzard between Grayling and Gaylord. Think Shackleton. Things are real different when you cross the 45 parallel. Once we crossed the bridge things cleared a bit and we made pretty good time. Too good, according to the nice police officer that only gave me a warning.

Today we just putzed around town, basically just kicking back and relaxing a bit. We grabbed some pasties, the UP’s version of soul food. Pasties are a pastry shell with meat and some vegies inside. When the vendor says “with or without” you are supposed to know he is referring to rutabagas. If you don’t know, you’re a tourist. I believe Pasties originated with Welsh miners. They would bring them to work for lunch and could heat them up on a shovel. They’re part of the culture up here.

So Ole went out to the camp three holer and Enid was there fishing around in it with a stick. Ole asked what he could possibly be doing and Enid replied, “I was sitting here doing my business when my coat slipped down the other hole.” Ole said, “You don’t want that nasty old coat after it’s been down there.” Enid replied, “Oh, I don’t care about that old coat but there’s a pastie in the pocket.”

There are pastie shops all over the UP. Everyone thinks they make the best pasties. We have our favorite. I’m doing something controversial here and saying that Jean Kay’s pasties are the best in the U.P. Maybe in the world. This is like publicly saying which superhero is the best. Or Weavers scrapple is better than Heagy’s. Fighting words in some places. I expect hate mail and death threats over this but some things need to be said.

A pastie.

We spent a year up here and have fallen for the place. This is a tough place. Not Sonoran desert tough but tough in a different way. Think Shackleton. If it’s not winter, they’re getting ready for winter.* Hundreds of people turn out in 13 degree weather to watch the start of a dogsled race. The race is 200 miles long. Teams start Friday night and the winner comes in sometime Sunday morning. Nobody cares about the mushers but there are mandatory rest stops for the dogs. I question if the stops are needed. These dogs want to run. They may not take Westminster but these are the dogs I want on my fighting side.

 

*Another event that demonstrates the UP culture was the outdoor art show at Presque Isle park. Sculptures were scattered around the island that juts out into Lake Superior. The only way to view the works was on X-Country skis or snow shoes. Air temps were below zero. Thousands were in attendance. –Lise

Birding by the breakwall.

Notice the spikes to keep the birders out.

Tough dogs and tough people. It was 13 degrees Fahrenheit at start time.

Not the fashions you will see in Okemos.

Tomorrow, the Peshekee Grade and the search for gray jays.